Yeehaw! It’s finally May, and summer will be here before we know it. The snow is starting to melt and the wildflowers are springing up which means it’s almost time to get back to our favorite climbing area: The legendary Wild Iris! If you are planning your first trip or gearing up for a campaign on a project, read on to make sure you have all the essentials to make sure you have the best time!

Jordan Cannon cutting loose at the Aspen Glades on “Cowboy King” (5.13b). A Wild Iris right of passage for the roof aficionados. Nate Liles Photo https://www.orographic.studio/.

Wild Iris is one of the finest climbing areas in the United States. Beautiful bone white dolomite cliffs rise out from a field of wildflowers set before a backdrop of the snow capped Wind River Mountains. There is simply nowhere else like it on earth. The routes are short, fierce, and featured nearly exclusively with perfect pockets of all sizes. Every year climbers from all over the world come to test themselves on any one of hundreds of classic routes. 

Jake Dickerson referring to himself in the 3rd person and clipping the last bolt on Amy Skinner’s masterpiece “Wind and Rattlesnakes” (5.12a). Max Owens photo https://maxowensmedia.com/

Every year we have a ton of people call the shop asking what gear they need to climb at Wild Iris. While similar to other sport climbing areas, there are a few key items that can make or break your trip. Below is a list of the essentials I take every day no matter the forecast.

The whole kit and cabootle

  • Crag Pack

    • Your trusty gear hauler. A 40L-60L pack will hold your entire kit.

  • Climbing Rope

    • A 60 meter rope will safely get you up (and down) any pocket ladder at the Iris.

  • Rope Bag

    • It’s the wild west out here! A tarp or rope bag will keep the dust and rattlesnakes away from your rope and prolong its lifespan.

  • Quickdraws

    • A dozen clips will get you up any route on the bone white dolomite.

  • Climbing Shoes

    • Stiff pointy shoes are the name of the game out here. LaSportiva Solutions or Scarpa Instincts are the locals weapon of choice.

  • Harness

    • Any harness in good shape that is comfortable for hanging in will be great. Leather holster for your revolver is optional.

  • Chalk Bag/Chalk/Brush

    • Gunpowder works too in a pinch. Remember to brush the holds after each lap!

  • Belay Kit

    • Grigri/ATC, belay gloves, and belay specs. Don’t drink with yer shootin’ hand.

  • Stick Clip

    • “Step off the ground and go BOOM!”- Paul Piana. Don’t let the boom be your ankles.

  • Helmet

    • While the rock is quite solid at the cliff, protecting the noggin is always a good idea.

  • Skin Care Kit

    • I take tape, clippers, sanding block, superglue, shoe spray, liquid chalk, a knife, or anything that I think will come in handy but never actually helps me send.

  • First Aid Kit/Headlamp

    • A small compact kit weights nothing and can come in handy in a pinch.

  • Water 

    • We always say 2 liters per person per day as a minimum during the summer months. Dehydation+Altitute=Highway to the danger zone.

  • Food

    • A hearty lunch and extra snacks are essential to keep you cranking at altitude. Store your food properly away from critters or the rascally Wild Iris Mountain Sports Staff.

  • Rain Jacket

    • A summer storm with thunder and lightning can blow in off the mountains in minutes and open up a worm hole 300 years into the future (spoiler alert).

  • Warm Jacket

    • No matter how warm it is in Lander, an extra layer in your bag will make the world of difference when the sun goes down.

  • Approach Shoes

    • This makes the list after watching people flop around in their Birkenstocks. The trails can be rocky and steep. Getting to the crag is the “first step” to sending. (sorry).

  • Sunglasses

    • The main curse of Lander climbing is the lack of shady north facing cliffs. A pair of shades will make your day better on the approach or battling the sun’s reflection on the cliff.

  • Sunscreen

    • Up at 9,000’ the sun will toast you faster than a can o’ beans over a campfire.

And there it is! Everything you need to bring to ensure a successful climbing trip at the legendary Wild Iris! Any gear you still need can be found at Wild Iris Mountain Sports, still locally owned since 1990! Climb safely out there and I hope to see you at the cliff!

Lupine in the glow of the setting sun after a great day climbing. You can see these, they exist, they aren’t even hiding. You can tell it’s a Lupine because of the way it is.